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Vast Kaieteur Falls dominates the horizon. Catholic New World photos by Michael D. Wamble |
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By Michael D. Wamble
Staff Writer
During a three-week period this winter, Catholic New World staff
writer Michael D. Wamble participated in UCIP University 2000,
an international program for journalists and members of the Catholic
press to study abroad. Wamble spent each week in a different Caribbean
country. This report is from Guyana.
On eagles wings
We began to plunge. The tiny twin-engine plane sank toward the
ground like an anvil in the ocean.
Are we landing?, asked Father Christopher Bologo, editor of
the Good Shepherd, newspaper for the Archdiocese of Abuja, Nigeria,
peering out the window at the treetops of a vast and verdant rainforest.
Bologo, who also is pastor of Holy Rosary Catholic Church, and
the rest of the reporters and producers participating in the UCIP
Summer University program checked to see if they had rosaries,
just in case. Seconds later and several hundred feet farther down,
the faces of passengers seemed to ask a common question: Is this
flight worth the risk?
The answer slowly came into view as the plane bounced through
an air pocket and entered the thin misty clouds over the green
interior of Guyana.
Here flows the clear water and creamy froth of what government
officials and businesspeople hope will be the future draw to this
Caribbean state located on South Americas northeastern coast:
Kaieteur Falls.
Most people have never heard of it.
It is one of the highest single-drop waterfalls in the world.
At 741 feet,
it is five times the height of Niagara Falls.
Guyanese and foreign investors have faith that eco-tourism, the
business of visiting wonders like Kaieteur Falls will begin to
improve the economy of the second-poorest nation in the Western
Hemisphere.
The flight out of Guyanas capital of Georgetown to Annai revealed
a natural beauty hidden away from city residents. From the cattle
en route to fresh water to the bronze-skinned women and men making
cassava bread, this Guyana was a far cry from urban Georgetown.
Out here, Catholics and Anglicans send their children to rural
schools funded by United Nations programs. As Bologo and others
learned, its not unusual to learn ones ABCs from a chalkboard
at rest below a tree rooted along a savannah. Parents dont have
the option of sending their children to classrooms where religion
is part of the curricula.
Unlike Trinidad and Tobago, where denominational schoolsincluding
Catholic and Anglicanmake up 357 of the countrys 481 schools,
in Guyana Catholic schools were a thing of the past until as recently
as 1998.
Shortly after Guyana officially gained its independence from Britain
in 1966, the nation turned socialist and ended the historic presence
of Catholic and other religious schools. Buildings that once housed
religious orders and their schools are now occupied by businesses
and various government agencies.
It was a change that also affected Guyanas press: For nearly
four decades, the harsher aspects of that truth have been difficult
to put into print.
No one knows that better than the journalists who have given their
blood, sweat and tears to maintain the voice
of The Catholic Standard, the nations only Catholic newspaper.
Setting the Standard
Jesuit Father Andrew Morrison knew he was as good as dead.
The men with guns, those loyal to the Guyanese government, were
fed up with the objective reporting and biting editorials published
by Morrison, editor of The Catholic Standard, the official newspaper
of the Diocese of Georgetown. Beyond the paper, Morrison, a white
Catholic priest, was involved in the edges of the political struggle
for democracy in the country.
So it was no surprise when late one night the men with guns blew
a hole through the head of a white Jesuit priest on the streets
of Georgetown.
The surprise was the victim wasnt the Catholic Standard editor.
Morrisons story is documented in the book Justice: The Struggle
for Democracy in Guyana 1952-1992. Its cover shows a photo of
Jesuit Father Berbard Darke being chased across the road by a
religious cult member. Later that day he was found beaten and
stabbed. That pursuit was believed to have come from an order
from a leading government official.
Established in 1905, The Catholic Standards reputation for telling
the truth led to its inclusion in the microfiche files of the
United States Library of Congress as a record of what happen during
Guyanas decades of political turmoil.
Few Catholic papers in the United States own their own presses.
At The Catholic Standard presses run hot each week in the ground-level
floor of the modest two-level flat housing its offices.
Under Afro-Guyanese editor Colin Smith, The Catholic Standard
continues to question problems in the countrys electoral system
in addition to announcing priest appointments to the dioceses
19 parishes. Its a matter of keeping a record of faith and life,
unedited by political or secular influences.
The miracle of Marian Academy
There is something familiar with the urban poverty of Georgetown.
The depressed areas arent much different from those on the West
Side of Chicago.
These places are neither all encompassing nor reflective of the
entire city, yet cant be ignored. They are evidence of a condition
further magnified by the lack of educational choices offered to
children of the city.
In Chicago and other U.S. metropolitan areas, Catholic schools
offer an alternative to government-funded public schools for students
regardless of their religious identity. In Guyana, there are government
schools and more government schools.
That wasnt always the case.
Middle-aged citizens can remember attending single-sex Catholic
schools in Georgetown. Those schools disappeared under a series
of Marxist, socialist and communist systems and government claims
to land held by the diocese and religious orders.
Ursuline Sister Jacqueline De Silva remembered the day in 1976
when government forces took over their Catholic school, sending
the sisters into their residence in order to keep the convent.
The irony of Guyana is that this nation is best known by the actions
of a religious figure.
In 1978, the Rev. Jim Jones, a religious cult leader came to Guyana,
to start a commune called Jonestown. Under the direction of Jones,
over 900 of his followers consumed cyanide-laced Kool-Aid, committing
the largest mass-suicide in history.
Whether talking to government officials in Georgetown or Rupurundi
near Annai, there is a burning desire to erase the memory of Jonestown.
Gerry Gouveia, president of the Tourism and Hospitality Association
of Guyana, said, Image can be everything.
Other images remain, like statues of Mary at St. Rose High School.
Founded in 1847 by Irish Ursuline sisters, St. Rose was the first
secondary school for girls in Guyana. In the relative absence
of denominational schools, religious orders have attempted to
fill the void.
Ursuline Sister Claudette Jones works with school drop-outs and
other at-risk teens through a program called Hope in Youth.
The program is modeled after the SERVOL program started by Father
Gerry Pantin in Trinidad.
Some of the teens she encounters, Jones said, cannot read, but
are able to get by understanding basic words and traffic signals.
They also face numerous personal and societal hurdles.
Yet, in spite of financial and other obstacles, De Silva believed
the time was right to get back to the basics of Catholic education.
De Silvas goal is to move students beyond functional literacy
by starting Marian Academy, the citys only Catholic school in
decades.
What started on a modest plot of land near an outdoor cricket
field has grown to include the construction of an additional complex
twice its size across the road.
Today, students both Afro-Guyanese and Indo-Guyanese, girls and
boys are once again linked to the rich history of learning through
the work of Ursuline sisters.
With the arrival of Marian Academy, the dream of Catholic education
has once again taken flight in Guyana.
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